back from Haines Alaska

 

these are from the big camera from this trek. it's been a busy few weeks. a lot to catch up on, but thought i'd toss a few in and give a brief tale of the trek. above is like a rainbow and a half at least. i've seen double rainbows but this was a rainbow with extra color

these were far away but mountain goats or sheep by Kluane Lake.  this was in the Yukon Territory. my friend arrived on a Sunday night. we went for a drive since we'd ordered pizza after her arrival. in that time we saw a moose and her calf and a trio of young black bears.  we never saw the mom but the black bears were chill and playing so i'm guessing she was near by.  seeing bears from the car is almost always the best. 

i had to work one night before our trek away. it was in the ER, so slammed and exhausted after words. sleep and a walk at the dog park.  then since it was my friends Birthday we headed out to eat. Brewhouse for herb crusted halibut. we both love it. 

we did the drive to Tok day one.  it was ripe with fall colors.  we stopped several times to allow the dogs to play/walk.  we stayed at the Caribou Cabins in Tok.  great little cabins, dog friendly. they do have a few caribou there. they were chill about the dogs. we stayed here on our return back as well. that night we were gifted with a little northern lights display. always a treat.  there was a big show on the Sunday/Monday night we returned. it kicked in after 12:30 and after all the driving i crashed after dropping CR off at the airport so i slept through it. 

the next day was the longest drive. from Tok to Haines.  border crossing in and out of Alaska. you have to leave Alaska to get back to Alaska. we saw these bears driving the Haines Highway.  anyway. before we hit the border that drive to Haines, we hit construction.  really it was the only construction zone delay we had but it lasted about an hour. usually, this is a great opportunity to get out and walk around but there were so many biting flies surrounding the car that neither of us found that to be an appealing option.

it was a beautiful drive though. our border crossing in to Canada went smoothly. he only asked if my license plate was real. 

we had a mix of rain and sunshine. rainbows and fog. other than the bears we saw on the Haines Highway part we didn't see much scenery through that section. it was super foggy.  i always had decent visibility and there were hardly any other cars on the road out there. Kluane Lake was beautiful so we stopped to make sandwiches and walk the dogs on the lake beach. 

on these long drives you top off the tank every chance you get. since we'd be in the Yukon and British Columbia for only a matter of hours i put the phone on airplane mode to avoid roaming. we did see some fox as well along the road. no photos of them though. 

we got in to Haines just after the sun had gone down so the last part of the drive we didn't get scenery.  we crossed back into the states easily. showed him our bear photo, which impressed him. the dogs health certificates were checked and the dogs looked at. the CDC forms he never bothered with because he told us the fact that we knew what he was talking about was proof enough that i'd filled them out. the guy crossing back over in to Alaska on the drive home never asked.  he was our only serious/cranky border agent.  it's hit and miss really. 

we stayed 3 nights at the Beach Roadhouse in Haines.  they have a series of buildings/cabins/yurts.  almost at the end of the road to the right of town, past a landslide area. we were in one half of a duplex. dogs allowed as well so it worked out perfect really. the owners have quite a bit of property so plenty of places to walk dogs. there was a great trail at the end of the road.  we took that the next morning down to a beautiful beach. i think that was less than 2-3 miles round trip. 

that first day we explored the town. not ton to the town and many buildings for sale.  apparently one guy came in with the intent of re-inventing Haines and bought many properties only to abandon his plan so subsequently a lot of places on the market now.  reminded me of one of the stories running through the old series Northern Exposure. a wealthy astronaut in that series was hell bent and making Cicily an oasis that people would travel to from all over the world. 

this bear gave us a lovely show.  day 2 in Haines was a beautiful weather day.  we walked on a long beach at Mud Bay. the dogs got to run off leash and had a great time. after we opted to go check out the haines highway again since it was foggy on the way in and the drive out was looking like a rain day.  so back over the border for a few  hours.  we just did around 60 miles each way. check out the highest elevations and see the mountains we would other wise miss.  this bear entertained us coming and going. in these he's playing in puddles by the side of the road. 

rolling around.  so cute from the car. as we drove toward border crossing i saw something ahead  on the road.  couldn't tell if it was a biker or motorcyclist...in the end it was a small plane.  they can use roads to land and that is what happened so that was interesting. that was at mile 33 restaurant.  we stopped there on the return trip and took in an early dinner. CR had explore places to eat more than i had.  so we checked off several places during our stay.  we ate well for sure. quite a few options. 

we also cruised over to the Chilkoot Lake a few times over our stay and there was also some cool old buildings that used to be military ages ago.  many have been transformed into condo's.  there was also a big grass field in the middle of those buildings so another good place to let the dogs play while we enjoyed some totem poles and historic buildings

we also stopped and enjoyed this cool gyrfalcon on our sunny day drive. it looked to have captured a chipmunk and was enjoying it's meal.  

there was some discussion as to what sort of bird this was.  several sources seem to confirm gyrfalcon. 

there were quite a few totem poles in town.  there were some really old ones on the field laying down.  loved those and there was one a the library where the clever totem carver had placed a book in the hands of one of the characters on the pole...the book was titled, "totem carving for dummies".  i found that amusing. 

there were several beaches that we stopped to let the dogs play on too. i always enjoy exploring small towns up here. i had been to Haines briefly years ago. it was a stop on our cruise of SouthEast Ak. we stopped, got in a van and then headed out to the Chilkat River to see bald eagles.  they congregate in October/November so really not tons of eagles back then or this trip.  lots of bear scat all over and some bear tracks on beaches. 

nice feather display

the drive back tends to feel shorter and technically it was shorter. no construction stop. ended up with better weather than expected. stopped again in Kluane.  we also stopped at this pretty waterfall in Canada. again...just stops to eat, stretch and walk dogs. gas up when we could. 

got back to Tok and ate at really the only place in town Fast Eddy's.  Tok it much better than Glenallen, charm wise, but neither are really all that charming. the coastal towns have it all over some of the interior towns which are more utilitarian than pretty. 

we made a stop at the Matanuska Glacier on the way back. the dogs love it.  better to get them silt stained on the way home. 

overall, a lovely trek.  

i got a bit lazy after i returned home and my friend left. typical after a long drive and excitement of exploring this amazing place. 

the pets survived, thanks LS for stopping by to check on them. the dogs and humans survived the border crossings. 

Covid Cat has an air tag on so i checked on him at times. mostly, he tends to stick very close to home so that is comforting. 

dog park and local walks.  only skipped walks one day this past week after returning.  that was a total lazy day.  it was sunny so i just enjoyed the sunshine and read a novel i've been working on.

got my two shifts in last week.  pcu and peds. 

i'll have to hop in the shower and get these guys off walking soon. my handyman has been coming in this last week working on the shed.  so great to see progress after looking at the shell all summer. i got a layer of primer on the wall up front as well. so progress all over. 

he's on his way over now to finish the roof. i was thinking of a metal roof but in the end it would have to be ordered and take weeks to come so just going with shingles now. 

i bought some little boat style port windows so i'll have him put one on each door and then i'm thinking put one under the roof and set it up so the cat can have a place inside/outside to chill.  just enter through the little window. put some cat steps up to the top. 

always about these pets.  

it was a lot of photos to load in the computer...caught up.  

yesterday i walked in N. Bivouac.  found one of my favorite tiny tourquoise mushrooms.  lots of them.  so pretty. 

watched a mini series the other night.  met with my friend SJ for dinner last night.  

todays goals...maybe get a new skeleton...it is getting to be that time of year.  stopped at home depot for more primer and they had Halloween and Christmas stuff out. 

MT picked a date for the pumpkin massacre that sounds like it will work for about everyone so that is great. 

this is that old fort area above and below from a beach outside town. i better hop in shower. 

grateful for A.  safe travels to and from Haines B.  more amazing sights and memories. C. health and happiness

fall has begun...

 

decided sort of last minute to head north.  it appeared that Denali National Park may be hitting peak.  finding dog friendly was a bit of a tough job but i ended up back at the place in Healy i'd stayed at with my brother. last year they had said only one dog, this time i just ask vaguely if they were dog friendly. spendy but it was clean and worked. 

i stopped to walk the dogs several times along the way.  we did the loop around Reflection lake closer to home then headed to Talkeetna.  was going to take side trail at Reflection to the water but it's pretty flooded down there.  we did the Whigim? loop in Talkeetna. dogs enjoyed their off leash time. 

before we got to Cantwell there was a loud noise and then i could tell something was dragging or i'd gotten a flat.  no alarms on the car. i pulled over in a safe spot to investigate. the tray under the car had dropped and crinkled and was dragging.  i'd had the oil changed prior to leaving so i suspect they didn't secure this tray after they did that. i was under car trying to un bend it or just remove it but i wasn't able to 

looked like a simple fix but i couldn't fix it.  i called AAA for a tow.  Cantwell was 30 miles away from what i could gather i hoped they could either come out and detach it or haul the car there and detach it. it ended up being at least 3 hour delay, probably more. the owner of the tow company called to check on what i needed.  he was not very encouraging.  said they could only tow the car to Anchorage or Fairbanks.  i could only be taken to Cantwell and would have to find my own way back to Anchorage. the dogs would ride in the car.  

i could feel myself panicking a bit.  afraid i'd be stuck in the open in Cantwell with 2 dogs and all my gear. 

the actual tow guy, Andrew, that arrived was much more helpful and positive. the dogs did ride in the car but once in Cantwell he got tools and easily removed the metal dragging and i was on my way. no 4 wheeling and i just paid close attention to what i was driving over.  so we all survived. got to the hotel late but got in and settled. 

that had been another issue. trying to call them to say i'd be late.  i wasn't sure if it was where i was or note but i got other friends to attempt to call them and nothing.  it just kept hanging up on all of us. they had said if you can't get there by 8pm call. i was afraid i'd have to pitch a tent after all this if i didn't get ahold of them.  it wasn't an issue in the end. just an added stress. i had used the number earlier to add a second night since SH decided to join on night two. 

these pictures are from a recent train trip to Spencer Glacier and a boat trip out of Seward. 

i got the dogs settled in, they were as tired as i was i think. the colors were indeed looking beautiful and i was so bummed to have missed the rest of this day. Denali had come out while i was in Talkeetna and we did stop at the South rest area for views. i really wish the car had broken down at broad pass instead of where it did so i could enjoy the views and the big mountain.  of course, the views were amazing on the tow ride in but no stopping to take photos and enjoy.  

where i did get stranded there was a driveway to nowhere and at the end of that was a pond.  i was watching a solo swan swim around in there. i attempted to walk to a creek close by where the car was but i was stressed and the traffic flew by and Ivy Rose backed out of leash, causing me more panic. 

i walked the dogs at the tow place while Andrew removed the metal then we left. thankful for him and for AAA. it was free.  do need to get him a little thank you package. 

i went to walk the dogs after we got settle in at the hotel.  as we stepped out the aurora was exploding overhead.  it was a beautiful show. didn't last very long but we hit it perfect.  absolutely stunning.  no great photo's because i wasn't in any mood to attempt good photography. 

the next day was beautiful but going to get cloudy so i opted to take the dogs for a walk on the road in Denali. you can only drive in 15 miles then the buses continue on in Denali. as i started to cross the bridge i noticed ptarmigan on the road. the dogs were very interested.  i thought i'd just sneak past them but walking by the bus.  Ivy backed out of her collar and took off in front of the stopped bus to chase off the ptarmigan.  dogs must be on leash and omg, so embarrassing. 

there were several more ptarmigan, changing to white already, but i managed to skirt the birds as i walked up this hill with the dogs.  we pulled aside for buses.  no large animals sighting. we turned and headed back down towards Savage. boom...fox!  it popped out on the road.  far enough away that i could manage dogs still.  there were also still lots of ptarmigan out there to deal with. 

a park bus started up the hill.  suddenly, the fox got scared and ran right towards us.  this caused many ptarmigan to take flight. this was too much for Ivy Rose, she once again backed out of her collar and took off after both the birds and the fox. so a very eventful walk.  Ivy was harnessed up the rest of the trip.  i had the harness in the car.  she doesn't like it but that is what had to happen.  she can't keep getting loose.  there were also squirrels all over the place. 

after this walk i put dogs in the car and then i walked Savage. after this the clouds were rolling in so i went back to hotel to take a nap and eat lunch. 

later SH came and we met for dinner and a drive through those first 15 miles. i like to just go back at different times, especially early morning and evening. you never know what you will see. we did see a grizzly bear, at a distance so that was great. 

in the morning we stopped at Antler Ridge trail parking lot to get some energy out of the dogs. then SH and i did the horseshoe trail loop. she headed off on the bus. it was getting pretty out again.  i headed out towards home after a few short walks in Denali and lunch with the dogs. 

i stopped a few times heading south to walk the dogs. the dogs got a nice off leash walk at Byers Lake. 

then just home and unpack.  some of these are from Byron walk and Portage Valley

the dogs always have a great time. 

i'm busy getting ready for my friend to visit and another long drive. probably the last big thing before we give up on summer for good and settle in to enjoy some fall colors nearby. we will drive to Haines next week. it's a 14 hour drive so we will split it by staying in Tok coming and going. i've only stopped by Haines so will be good to explore it and feel like i've really seen it. hoping for a little side trip to Chicken if possible.  just because i've never seen that area in fall.  maybe some caribou sightings.  will be long drives though so we shall see. 

i got the car a new skid plate yesterday.  

looks like rain soon here. will walk pups then i was thinking it may be nice to give them baths. tonight off and then back to work.  

would like to do some more cleaning here and get the wall outside primed. 

hoping the shed gets done soon.  my handyman should be back from his vacation soon. 

turns out anji charged me anyway.  so i'm trying to get that reversed. 

still have to get the dogs health certificates on Monday. we will go into Canada coming and going to Haines. 

for sure winding down for the season though. summer goes so fast. i think i've done a few things.  nothing like what i used to do. no kayak trips.  some of those big camping trips are probably behind me.  so happy i had so many adventures when i was younger.  i'm 60...how do people wait for stuff until after they retire.  they miss out on so much of the good stuff when their bodies are more capable. 

just so many more aches and pains as we age.  makes doing those adventures a bit tougher. 

not impossible but certainly not as much fun as when you were younger and didn't pay for everything in body aches. 

finished a fairly dull book.  will start a new one soon.  

a few mushroom walks in North Bivouac this week. will probably head to the dog park in a bit here. lots to do and no time.  blog a bit.  blog, bathe the dogs...that is todays plan. 

just some tasky things to do today. good lazy day in some ways. that is the joy of winter coming. all things begin to calm down in life.  just this last adventure. my experience up north does remind me to make sure we have that tent and stuff as back up in the car for the trip. 

this place is amazing but it can get you if you aren['t prepared or careful. 

this was the quick run out to Spencer Lake. 

you always think there is another year and another year. this life and each day is a gift. 

some fun memories this summer as with all. 

i did back off i think from most others this year.  let them come to me.  re-evaluate who wants to be here and who wants less. 

Covid was that eye opener for me.  i was putting too much effort into relationships that were not real. 

we aren't always valued at the same level as we value others.  it's good to sometimes take stock in the reality of what is.  people do come and go. some stay, others go. i've been ghosted by a few friends and i'm sure i have ghosted a few.  i guess i see it as some people come and stay and some come and go. 

rain, tis the season. watching an Alaskan survival show.  always funny.  things you think they should be doing.  it's in Southeast Alaska.  wet all the time.  hard to stay warm. not sure why they aren't catching fish.  none of them have seemed to take advantage of the sea that is right in front of them. they also don't seem to realize the sap can be used to make fire. 

of course, these shows all have a full staff so they can get picked up and taken to safety at any time.  not true survival. 

not sure i'd do well, or even would have when i was younger. it's not easy to survive in the Alaskan wilderness with minimal tools. one was all talk about how she'd summitted all these mountains...that is with a crew and proper gear. 

well, i'll just head out and survive a walk in the woods..that is enough for me.  that is enough survival trials for me. 

grateful for A. safe travels to and from Denali despite car troubles. B. the joy of the amazing fall colors in Denali. C. that nothing bad happened with Ivy slipping her collar those times.